November 30, 2008

Post Thanksgiving Lessons




I had a lovely Thanksgiving. The food was good, the turkey gave me no trouble whatsoever and mix of guests was just perfect. Essentially a Thanksgiving with no drama in the living room, dining room or kitchen. Can't beat that!

I had set up a challenge for myself this year not to use copious amounts of butter and I achieved that goal without compromising the flavor. I used 2 and a half sticks of butter - 3 at the most. Perfectly acceptable amount in my eyes when a 30 pound turkey and about 8 sides were on the table - feeding 11 guests and countless doggie bags and left overs.

The clear winner in the eyes of my guests were the brussels sprouts. They really did come out well. First off, they were baby brussels and so were sweet and tender. I cooked them in a little butter, fresh thyme and lemon juice. Definitely something to cook on days other than Thanksgiving.

The personal triumph for me were the mashed potatoes. I used very thin skinned Yukon Golds and left the skin on. I could say that it was for the added nutritional value in the peel - but the truth is that I was saving some time.
I used buttermilk instead of cream. Buttermilk is misunderstood by many to be a fat filled ingredient - but truly, it is very low in calories and provides a lovely tangy flavor to the potatoes. I did use some butter and a nice amount of salt and pepper. I almost forgot the roasted garlic. My trick with roasted garlic is to take garlic cloves and cook them slowly and gently in oil. They become tender and sweet, and provide a luscious flavor to just about anything. The bonus is garlic flavored oil that you can use in any dish that needs a subtle garlic flavor. I use the oil when cooking vegetables; or flavor it with rosemary and thyme - it makes a perfect dip for bread.

Then the stuffing. I love stuffing. I love making it and I especially love eating it. I used corn bread and sourdough bread. I cut it into inch size squares and left them in the oven overnight. The oven is off but the heat of the pilot light helps dry out the bread. When the bread is dry it takes on more of the stock which translates into more flavor. And the key to a flavorful stuffing are the fresh herbs. I don't think you can have too many herbs in stuffing. I use sage, rosemary, thyme and tons of parsley. I cook the mirepoix ( fancy french word for onions, carrots and celery) with the herbs so there is a lovely essence of the herbs. And then I add finely chopped herbs when mixing the stuffing and before putting it in the oven. The cooked herbs provide a depth of flavor and the uncooked herbs provide freshness.
That is a good principle when cooking almost anything like stews and other long cooked dishes. Herbs while cooking and fresh herbs as garnish, or toward the end of cooking. They brighten any dish.

The sweet potatoes. I used 2 kinds - by accident actually. Fresh Direct happened to have yams - my first experience with them. They are creme colored and not sweet, and taste quite starchy - more so than a potato. I also used the sweet potatoes. The color contrast was aesthetically pleasing and the flavor was enhanced by the juxtaposition of the 2 types of potatoes. I peeled and sliced them about a 1/4 inch thick - then boiled them seperately till they were just done.
It would be better to steam them but can you believe it - I don't have a steamer. I need to get me a steamer.
As soon as the potatoes were cooked and drained, I added some olive oil, maple syrup, fresh lemon and orange juice and the key ingredient in my opinion - grated fresh ginger. Salt and pepper of course. The technique of adding the flavoring ingredients to hot potatoes is a good one to keep in mind. The hot potatoes absorb the flavor more readily resulting in a more flavorful dish. Remember that when making potato salad.
I made this dish before with only sweet potatoes and I remember it tasting much better. I am not sure what happened exactly. Did the yams not love the maple syrup, etc.? I am not exactly sure. The dish was good - just not as good as I remember it the last time. But my guests didn't have the memories of the last time I made them - and so I trust that they enjoyed them.

The salad:

Oven Roasted Beets with Arugula. I loved this salad. It was fresh and light - a nice counter point to the other dishes on the table. For the beets, wrap them in foil and bake them in a 325 degree oven. They take quite a while - so its best to do this the night before. My beets were especially huge and so took almost 2 1/2 hours. As soon as you are able to handle them, oil your hands and peel them. The oiling of the hands ensures that your hands don't remain red for too long. The same applies for your cutting board. I cut the beets into 1 inch square. I love cutting beets into squares as opposed to slices - they look like jewels when they are square. I saved the juice that was gathered in the foil that the beets were cooked in and used it in the dressing.
The dressing like most of my dressings was simple. Just some lemon or lime juice - whatever I have at hand, a little olive oil (I don't follow the formula of 1/4 acid to 3/4 oil - I just taste it till it tastes right) and salt and pepper of course. Just before I was to serve the salad I dressed the baby arugula and the red beet juice made the leaves look lovely. The oil made them glisten and the red juice clung to the leaves in places and they looked lovely. I put the greens in the middle of a platter and the dressed beets all around.
If you like the idea of this salad - please take the time to cook the fresh beets. What I am trying to say is don't used canned beets - they are no where close to the fresh ones. If you don't have 2 hours to put your beets in a largely unattended oven - make another salad.
I had planned to put some goat cheese in the salad too but changed my mind at the last minute. They was too much food on the table and the goat cheese would be lost. I would definitely add it when I make this salad on another day when I don't have such a feast.

The Vegetarian Entree.

I baked the Sweet Dumpling Pumpkins in the oven the nice before. The choice of these pumpkins were solely visual and what I could find in the market. Also the size helped in the determination - I was looking for something that would be good for 1 serving. They were a tad too big - but the day before Thanksgiving I couldn't be too choosy. There was a huge run on all things squash and pumpkin at the grocery store. This was one ingredient that I didn't get from Fresh Direct since I wanted to hand pick them.
I made the filling which was toasted pearl couscous (called Israeli couscous by some), onions, squash, apples, mushrooms and lots of herbs. Half an hour before were were to sit down, I stuffed filled the pumpkins and baked them in the oven. I wasn't thrilled with them since I think they cooked to long in the oven and the couscous got a tad crunchy on top. This is what happens when you are juggling 8 or 9 dishes in one oven and trying to get everything hot and out on the table at the same time. I still think that the vegetarians appreciated the sentiment that I made something especially for them and they wouldn't just have a plateful of side dishes.
I am hypercritical of my own cooking because that is how I learn. When I make these next I might put them in a lower temperature oven or keep a watchful eye on them on maybe cover them.
Cooking is all about making adjustments according to what is thrown at you.

The Gravy:

For the first time ever I made the gravy before hand. Ideally I would want to make it with the turkey drippings in the pan the turkey was cooked in. The turkey needs to rest for 30 minutes and that is plenty of time to make the gravy. But with the size of kitchen that I am working in and the last minute chaos of getting everything ready - making the gravy becomes a huge ordeal. By the time the turkey comes out of the oven I am used every square inch of my counter space and the stove top. To have two burners free where I can make the gravy the way I like it just doesn't happen.

So I made the gravy before and then after degreasing the pan juices, I added them to the already made gravy. The is a happy medium that I am comfortable with.
When I go out to buy that steamer I also need to get a gravy separator. It is this genius measuring cup looking contraption that just separates the fat from the precious as gold pan drippings, and you can just pour it off while the fat remains in the separator.
I was happy with my gravy, it had a rich and deep flavor and was the perfect consistency. Slightly thick but not gummy and gray. Think of it as a thickened jus.

The Turkey:

It was my least fussy turkey ever. By that I mean that it gave me no trouble at all. I cooked it simply and it cooperated all the way. No pink parts at the joints, no dryness - just perfect crispy brown skin, succulently juicy breast meat and perfectly cooked dark meat.

I rubbed it with salt and pepper and massaged it with 1/2 stick of butter. Put it in a 500 degree oven for about 20 minutes and then reduced the heat to 350 and cooked it for another 2 hours of so - until the thermometer registered 160 degrees. I didn't baste the turkey once. I feel once there is a lovely crispy skin - why ruin it by throwing liquid on it and also...since it is so crispy - how will any liquid permeate. I used to baste every 20 minutes but I find that it just cools down the oven and makes the turkey take longer to cook.

I hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving.
If not, don't worry there will be another one next year.
What were the hits or misses in your menu?
Learn anything new? Something to keep in mind for next year or forget about it?

Until I eat again!

November 27, 2008

My Thanksgiving Menu

Fresh Direct came through for me.

Everything was delivered and perfect.

I prepped yesterday and following is my menu thus far.

Cheese Platter

Pear and Butternut Squash

Roast Turkey with Gravy

Sausage and Apple Stuffing
(Sourdough and Cornbread, Wild Rice, Chestnuts, Herbs and more herbs)

Vegetarian Stuffing

Pearl Cousous Stuffed Squash (for the vegetarian guests)

Green Beans with Fried Onions and Toasted Almonds

Brussels Sprouts

Garlic Smashed Potatoes with Buttermilk

Sweet Potatoes with Ginger and Maple Syrup

Oven Roasted Root Vegetables with Herbs
(rutabaga, turnips, parsnips, onions and carrots)

Salad
Roasted Yellow and Red Beets with Arugula and Goat Cheese and Toasted Pecans

Home made Cranberry Sauce with Orange

Bread and Sweet Butter

Pecan Pie and Pumpkin Pie with Chantilly Cream

November 25, 2008

An Ode to Fresh Direct

This might come across as an advertisement for Fresh Direct. So be it - it is an amazing service. For years now I would traipse around the city hunting and gathering for the best ingredients to cook the Thanksgiving Feast. Frankly, it was quite exhausting; at times anxiety provoking (am I getting to the farmer's market early enough to get the best of the pickin's?), and would take the wind out of my sail.

On Sunday night, I sat down with my lap top and just picked out what I need to cook on Thursday. While I am a stickler for lists and more lists (comes from years of catering) - with Fresh Direct's website I didn't even have to have a list. I started with the turkey of course - picked the 18-20 lb. bird and the rest of the shopping just occurred naturally. Vegetables, fruits, dairy, bread - all just a click away. So easy, so smooth, so relaxing. And the cost is pretty comparable to the stores I would go to. The convenience though ... Priceless!

The delivery is due this afternoon, a few hours after I am writing this. But am I afraid that they will mess up my order? Not really. I used them for Christmas dinner last year. But the time they really came through for me was last summer. I was catering a wedding. The company I ordered all the food from decided to take it to an old address and not even call me to tell me that no one was there! I basically waited and waited, tried calling and calling - no one was there since it was the weekend. The anxiety was enough to make me change careers.

But a huge part of the catering business is to have a plan B, and sometimes even a plan C and D. I calmly (outwardly calm) sat down in front of my computer and ordered everything from Fresh Direct. I won't lie-I was afraid. I was very afraid. But they showed up at the assigned venue on time with everything on my list. It was obviously more expensive than the whole sale place I originally ordered from - but boy, did they save my life. Since then I am a Fresh Direct Convert.

So today between 2 and 4 PM I expect them to show up with everything I ordered. Everything at the right temperature and looking good and fresh. I can't wait! And all the extra energy I have from the absence of shopping around town will result in a better cooking experience for my favorite holiday of the year.

Have you ever used Fresh Direct?

Do you think I should send a link of this post to the president of Fresh Direct? Maybe they'll give me a little discount for my next order.

Hope you have most of your shopping done.

Until I eat again!

November 17, 2008

Help! I have at least 2 Vegetarians coming for Thanksgiving

I wrote in my previous posts about Thanksgiving - that I love it so. It is my favorite holiday and I enjoy every aspect of it. I have been cooking for this day for years and years, but this is the first time I am going to have 2 vegetarians for sure and maybe 3. This excites me, and concerns me just a tad. I don't want the vegetarians to feel like they are having a bunch of side dishes on their plate - that they were just an after thought. I looked at Gourmet Magazine's Vegetarian Feast menu passingly a few weeks ago and at first glance it looked like a list of side dishes. Now that I have 2 vegetarians on my guest list - I am going to look at that menu again much closely, and that should help me decide how I am going to approach this new curve ball that was thrown at me just this morning.

What I know or sure as of now:

Those who eat turkey will have turkey, and those who don't will get something in its place - what exactly ... I don't know yet.

I thought Tofu something - not tofurkey - but maybe, I'll treat tofu the way I treat the turkey.

For those of you who are turning up your nose as you read this - trust me - tofu can be delicious. The charm of tofu is that it takes on whatever flavors you add to it very happily and readily. It is like potatoes or pasta or even chicken. Its has a blank taste profile and can't wait for some fabulous taste spectrum to be thrown at it, and it will sop it up so willingly.

As of now, tofu is a contender. How I will prepare it, if I prepare it - I don't know.

The other thought I had was a vegetarian lasagna-but I have to consider oven space. I have one oven to work with and am not sure if I can dedicate so much room and so much time that a lasagna will take.

Another pasta maybe?

That's certainly a possibility.

As I write this I am also envisioning individual squash stuffed with something like Israeli couscous and vegetables; or barley and vegetables. This is looking more and more like the thing that I am probably going to do.

This back and forth is exactly what I enjoy about planning my menu.

Do you have any suggestions for me?

Have you had vegetarians at your Thanksgiving Table?
Are you a vegetarian yourself? What do you like for Thanksgiving?
Were you ever caught by surprise and found yourself with guests that did not eat meat? What did you do?

Please tell me what you are thinking?

Until I eat again!

November 13, 2008

Can Thanksgiving be Healthful without being Boring?

One of the things I enjoyed several weeks before Thanksgiving was sifting through food magazines, cookbooks and television shows - trying to come up with my menu. One common ingredient in most recipes is butter. While I have nothing against butter - 2 sticks per dish when there are an average of 8 dishes on the table does not a healthful meal make. To saute carrots, onions and celery in 2 tbs of butter is good ... to do the same in 2 cups of butter is approaching Paula Deen's land of insanity.

This year as I plan my menu - my major goal is to make it simple, delicious and healthy. The first 2 goals I have had before but the 3rd is new.

So the question is Can the Thanksgiving meal be healthful without being boring?

I think so.

Lets review the things that most probably will show up on the table.

Turkey - the star of the meal is very low in fat even when it is draped in a butter soaked cheesecloth (see previous post).

Mashed Potatoes - Potatoes are a maligned vegetable for no reason what so ever. They are high in potassium, vitamin C and folate. They contain a trace amount of fat.
Its usually what'd done to the potato that gives it a bad rap.
I will be mashing mine in buttermilk, loads of garlic and butter

Sweet Potatoes - are not so maligned, rightfully so. Sweet Potatoes are rich in beta-carotene and a multitude of antioxidants.
I intend to make them with maple syrup, ginger and maybe walnuts or pecans. Control your urge to say Yumm-O

Root Vegetable Medley - What could be bad about that?
Nothing I say ... nothing at all

The Stuffing
I am not entirely sure what kind I will be making this year
I still have some time to decide. Stuffing is my favorite thing to make and so I take my time deciding what exactly I'll do. After having made it a gazillion times - I don't use a recipe. I change my mind at the last minute and throw things in. No one knows what exactly I will be cooking until after it's cooked and I put on some photos to prove it.
Some of my favorite ingredients to put in the stuffing are:
Sour dough Bread
Corn Bread
Wild Rice
Chestnuts
Leeks
(I think I have the making of my stuffing right here)

Roasted Brussels Sprouts
So good-so misunderstood. So high in magnesium. potassium, riboflavin, thiamin...the list goes on and on

Cranberry Sauce with orange segments and orange zest - cranberries have 5 times the antioxidant content of broccoli.
Nothing wrong here at all.

Salad - Don't know which kind yet.
All good

Dessert
Difficult to rationalize and make 'good'.
The only way to deal with this one is to exercise portion control or use Dr. Oz's u-turn technique that I have been using all year. You can look it up in his book: You- On a Diet

I think I have my menu.

The starters will probably be outsourced to the guests coming over who insist on bringing something.

I might make my Cognac Scented Chicken Livers on Croutons.
Chicken livers are high in zinc and selenium and they are just so delicious.

I have to stop now - I am getting hungry.

I feel good about my menu. I think it is going to be a healthful Thanksgiving Feast and no one will be the wiser.
Thank God we don't need Rice Cakes and Slim Fast Shakes not to feel guilty about enjoying the glorious day that is Thanksgiving.

Share your Thanksgiving menu with me.
Want some ideas of what to make? I can help

Until I eat again!

November 5, 2008

Don't Be Afraid of the Turkey!

15 Days to Thanksgiving!

Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday of all times. It involves the most important things to me - Food, Friends and Family...corny but true.

I made turkey the first year I came to the States, when I was 16 and had never seen a turkey in my entire life. I believe Gourmet or some such magazine was my guide and I created an entire "Traditional" meal. That was a long time ago. Every year since, I learned some new technique from someone. Anyone.

Martha (Martha Stewart to all of you), for instance taught me to soak cheesecloth in butter and drape it over the breast so it doesn't get dry. I do that sometimes, it really does work.

David Rosengarten (who had one of the best shows on the Food Network - when the network was worth watching) made a turkey where I he removed the breast meat as soon as it was done and then let the rest of the bird cook sans the breast. He paraded the turkey in the dining room for the waiting guests right before he removed the breast and then no one was the wiser, and the bird was pure perfection. I haven't used this trick but seems like an excellent idea.

Brining has been a big thing is the recent past-I will admit I have never tried it - primarily due to lack of space. I don't have a fridge big enough that will accommodate my turkey while it bathes in salty liquid.
For years I have felt like a fake never having brined my turkey but today as I write this I read an article in the New York Times (November 12th, 2008) by Harold McGee. He is not a fan of brining and he explains why. Check it out. I feel so much better now.

Then there is the deep fried turkey-sounds sooo delicious but sooo dangerous. I wouldn't try it for the world. I will wait for someone named Bubba to invite me to his house in the woods where he and his buddies will be frying up some turkey outside the garage. I promise to take some side dishes.

The techniques that I use now to achieve a succulent, moist bird is a compilation of techniques and tips from dozens of magazines, cook books and television shows. Going to cooking school helped too. Hopefully, the following will help you.

First and foremost:

Do not be nervous. Remember, the turkey is NOT the most important part of the day. Its your family and friends and other things that you are thankful for.
This year I am most thankful that the White House is going to have the correct residents living in it for the next 4 years.

Buy the best quality turkey you can afford.

Throw away the plastic pop up thingi if your bird has one. It means nothing when it pops up.

Let the turkey stand on the counter for 30 minutes ( a bit more if you can stand it) before you put it in the oven).

Take out the giblets and the neck in the plastic bag before you put the turkey in the oven.

Do not baste every 20 minutes as many recipes say, because
- opening and closing the oven again and again just lowers the temperature of the oven and
- I don't really think it helps that much

I just start the turkey in a high oven - 450 degrees for 30 to 45 minutes-peek in once to see if I may need to turn it around if it is getting too dark on one side - then lower the oven to 350, and just let it go for at least another hour - depending on the size of your turkey.

I read all those formulas of 20 minutes per pound, etc. - it doesn't really always hold true. Things vary turkey to turkey and oven to oven.

Instead, learn a temperature. Turkey is done at 160 degrees. Once the thickest part of the thigh (without touching the bone) registers 160 - your bird is done - simple - simple - did I say simple?

Make sure you let it rest for 30 minutes before you carve it.

The resting bird also gives you ample time to reheat the side dishes in the newly vacated oven, and gather your guests around the table.

Spend some time learning to prepare a good gravy, and most sins of the turkey with be masked by that.

Take a deep breath in. Relax.

Now tell me your favorite ways to make turkey.
Tell me your fears and I will try to quell them.
Ask me any questions that you may have. I promise to get back to you.
Come back for more pre-Thanksgiving talk.

Until I eat again!